Monday, March 15, 2010

"DEATH IN THE GRIZZLY MAZE" BOOK REVIEW

I first became aware of Timothy Treadwell by reading a short story on him in Reader's Digest, after his death. His death was horrific, one akin to being attacked by a shark only his was to be eaten by bears, along with his girlfriend. Apparently he had acquired some fame with his features on Animal Planet's, "Grizzly Man Diaries" as well as guest spots periodically on a National level. He had gained quite a following among Conservation extremists but he also received a lot of criticism from reputable Conservationsists for his unorthodoxed behaviors.



I purchased this book when we were in Glacier National Park on our 2005 Summer visit. It was a very good read, holding my interest the entire time. Subsequently, Werner Herzog made a movie about Treadwell titled, "Grizzly Man". For the first time, I saw the extraordinary film footage that Treadwell had recorded of the Brown Bears that he loved and adored and ultimately lost his life to. Regardless of how exquisite the footage is of rare and never before seen behaviors, the guy completely crossed the line in my opinion!

I believe from information that the author gives, Treadwell had some real mental issues. As a child he showed the classic symptoms of ADHD and Dyslexia. As an adult he delved into depression, alcohol and drugs. To his credit, discovering his passion for the Grizzlies was the way he overcame those dependencies. Sadly, the adreneline rush he got from his bear encounters replaced it. I wonder if as an adult, he would've been diagnosed as Bi-Polar? Undiagnosed and untreated (this Bi-Polar theory of mine) would've driven him to outrageous and unacceptable behavior that goes beyond common sense.

A very informative and well-done book!


From the back cover:
"On the afternoon of Sunday, October 5, 2003, in Alaska's Katmai National Park, one or more brown bears killed and ate Timothy Treadwell and his girlfriend, Amie Huguenard. The next day, park rangers investigating the site shot and killed two bears that threatened them; it was later determined that one of the bears had human flesh and clothing in its stomach.
This chilling story immediately captured worldwide media attention, not only because of the horrific manner of Timothy and Amie's deaths, but also because Timothy was a well-known wildlife celebrity. His films of close-up encounters with grizzly bears – he spent more than a dozen summers living with and videotaping giant bears in the Alaskan bush – were the subject of television talk shows, movies, and books.
But his work was not without controversy, and some bear experts felt that Treadwell's fatal encounter was a tragedy waiting to happen – the result of the unorthodox tactics he used in his life among the bears.
Death in the Grizzly Maze is the compelling account of Treadwell's intense life and dramatic death. Author Mike Lapinski chronicles Treadwell's rise from self-described alcoholic loser to popular grizzly-bear advocate. Lapinski explores how a waiter from Malibu, California, with no background in biology or wildlife science, came to be considered a bear expert. And he reveals the high cost of the current craze for wildlife celebrities – and what it means for the future of wildlife conservation."

Sunday, March 14, 2010

DEADWOOD FALLS HIKE-GLACIER NP SUMMER 2007

Glacier NP is my favorite park that we have been to so far. I love the mountain vistas, the "Going To The Sun" road, the history and well, it's in MONTANA! I have said before that I have been to a lot of different places but the feeling that swept over me the first time I went to Montana, was like no other. It's as if my spirit knew that this is my home!

The hike to DEADWOOD FALLS wasn't a long hike by any standards! Dave and his youngest brother Perry were going to do a short backcountry hike up Gunsight Pass, camp overnight at Lake Ellen Wilson and the next day they were to rendez-vous with Charlie and I (who were going up on horseback) at the SPERRY CHALET.

Perry, Charlie and Dave at the Trailhead.


The Great Northern Railroad built a chain of chalets in the earliest days of the Park as a means of attracting visitors. There was no "Going To The Sun" Road at that time, so riding horseback was the only means of seeing this "Crown Of the Continent". Out of all the chalets built, SPERRY & GRANITE PARK are the only 2 that remain. Charlie and I decided to hike in a short way with Dave and Perry to Deadwood Falls but after a half mile in, Charlie decided to go back to the van. The 3 of us hiked the remaining 3/4 mile of the trail, part of it running parallel to Reynold's Creek until we reached our destination.



Reynolds Creek as it prepares to enter the small gorge leading up to Deadwood Falls.

The creek runs through this gorge....
and collects in this deep pool before going over the 30 foot Falls.


After a short break and snapping off pictures, I kissed Dave goodbye and told him that I would see him the next day at SPERRY CHALET.

Upon leaving the guys, I had to hike back to the van, ALONE! I had been under the impression that I was going in with them, a short walk to the watherfall, not 1.3 miles. Thus, I had brought no daypack and no bear spray! Dave laughed that this would probably be a good time for me to sing, (the only time I wouldn't receive a hard time or groans when I bursted into an exuberant song!) The only problem was that it was all uphill going back and my breath was being used for other things, mainly breathing rather than singing! As I wound through the forest and berry bushes I thought of scenes from 2 different movies.

The first movie that came to my mind was "Jurassic Park"; that scene where the dinosaurs are sneaking through the vegetation and yank out the stragglers that are crossing through the meadow in single file formation! The other movie was "Return of the Mummy", where the voodoo, pygmy creatures with blow darts, are screaming through the jungle killing everyone in sight! I tried to quiet my over-active imagination but just when I thought I had gotten it under control, I heard a noise in the vegetation and stopped. It stopped as well. Peering out under the canopy of green, I strained my eyes for a glimpse of grizzly fur. I saw nothing and after what seemed like an eternity I resumed walking. After a few paces, I heard the noise again and felt something reach for my leg! I took off running, knowing full well that I could never outrun a griz with my short, fat legs! Waiting for something to tackle me as I ran, I replayed the events in my mind. Only after I had "ran" a short distance did I realize what had happened. As the morning had worn on, the temperatures had risen and I tied my rainjacket around my waist. The vegetation covered over parts of the trail and as I had walked through, the swishy nylon had brushed against the plants and then bounced back onto my leg! When the full realization hit me, I laughed so hard at my own foolishness that I am sure whatever creatures were lurking in the woods, had been chased off.

When hiking I have learned to never take yourself TOO seriously!

Thursday, March 11, 2010

BUNSEN PEAK & OSPREY FALLS HIKE YELLOWSTONE NP FALL 2005

We planned our day hike over Bunsen Peak and down to Osprey Falls for Wednesday, September 28th. In 2004, Dave had taken this same hike with some of our family members on a large group trip. I was unable to go on this hike because I wasn't up to it physically. I had been diagnosed with an auto-immune disease a few weeks prior to that 2004 vacation and had just been released from the hospital after receiving blood transfuions the week before. I had managed to do the Mt. Washburn hike but that had taken a lot out of me. I was eager to do the Bunsen Peak-Osprey Falls hike since Dave had told me what a great hike it was!


The night before our hike, Dave suggested we keep our Camelbak's out in the car after filling them up so that the water would be really cold. Dave put his in the trunk and I laid mine flat over the cooler in the back seat of the car.

When we awoke, the fog was so thick and it looked so gloomy that I had second thoughts about attempting the 10 mile hike. The weather forecast was for sunny skies and Dave figured the fog would burn off. We bundled up in layers since it was chilly out. Along the way we stopped so Dave could photograph a bull elk in the fog and mist.




We started our hike at the base of Bunsen Peak, the fog made everything look surreal.



As we climbed, switchbacking up the mountain we were able to see Mammoth Hot Springs down below since the clouds were starting to break up.


We also heard wolves howling back and forth to one another. Hearing the wolves was a highlight of this particular hike; one of those memories etched deeply in your mind just as sure as if it had been chiseled in granite! Nearing the top of Bunsen Peak where we heard the wolves exchange howls with one another!

Zooming in you can see the trailhead far below.


After we reached the top we ate our power bars and drank from our Camelbak's. I had already taken my wool hat from my head and now I shed my fleece jacket as the temperatures began to rise. I mentioned to Dave that I must've really sweated on the way up the mountain because I felt clammy. I shed my turtleneck as well, leaving only my long sleeved shirt to hike in. We took our photos, our break ended and it was time to move on.



High atop Bunsen Peak with Swan Lake below and the Gallatin Mountain Range in the distance.


We descended the peak and made our way over to where the Osprey Falls trailhead begins. I went to take a drink but nothing came out. I thought it unusual and told Dave that when we stopped again I would have to check it, thinking that I must've somehoe gotten a kink in the tubing. We hiked further along and I was really getting thirsty so we stopped again for a drink. I took off my pack, looked inside only to find not a single drop of water left!!! I was shocked because I'd only had a couple of drinks that entire morning. Apparently, I had not properly closed the seal after filling the hydration bladder on my Camelbak and it had leaked all night long inside the car. What was left inside the pack had been draining all over my back while we were hiking. I wasn't sweating as much as I thought, it was my drinking water soaking the back of my shirt! Dave was a perfect gentlemen and shared his with me. He had decided to leave out his water purifier at the last minute because he didn't think we'd need more water than what we had packed.
The view of Sheepeater Canyon before we made our descent.


It was steep climbing down into the canyon to get to Osprey Falls but when we finally got there, we had the place entirely to ourselves, we ended up taking a one hour break there! It was really beautiful and I hated to leave.
The Gardner River tumbles over the 150 foot Osprey Falls.


It took us an hour to climb the mile back up out of the canyon. By then I was getting pretty tired and we still had over 3 miles of level ground to hike until we got back to the trailhead where our car was parked. Climbing out of Sheepeater Canyon I am beginning to tire!



As we hiked, we saw a solitary bison off to the side. We kept a watchful eye on him and he did likewise. There was no cover in the event he decided to "investigate" us. By now, I was dragging quite a bit. Just as a second wind came over me, Dave told me to stop, and of course I did. He thought he had seen movement ahead on the trail. He strained his eyes to see if it was a bear. Unable to make anything out, he pulled out his telephoto lens to use as binoculars. He told me he didn't think it was a Grizzly Bear but he whipped out his can of bear spray from the holster just in case. That sounded like a good idea to me and I did the same only I took off the safety as well! We crept along the trail, ever alert in the event we encountered a possible bear. As we got closer we realized it was a tree trunk that had fallen on its side and that the grass in front of it, which was golden colored and swayed in the wind, had resembled griz fur. Where we thought we had seen a Grizzly!



We had a good laugh at ourselves and our over-active imiginations but we were quite relieved that it wasn't a bear after all! That was my motivation to haul my butt on out of there. Well, that and the cold can of tangerine soda waiting in the cooler!

When it was all said and done, we had hiked those 10 miles in 8 hours. A great dayhike! Bunsen Peak at the end of a great day!



We were both pretty tired at the end of the day and decided to go clean up and have dinner inside the Snow Lodge's Dining Room. We had gotten into a routine of watching the Ranger's various slide presentations and talks every night in the Old Faithful Visitor's Center. However on this night, there was no energy left in us and we were in bed by 9:30!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

"THE LAST SEASON" BOOK REVIEW

Dave receives BACKPACKER magazine and in 2006 he read this article.

It lead to him purchasing
"THE LAST SEASON"
by author Eric Blehm. This book is the story of National Park Backcountry Ranger, Randy Morgenson who went missing in the Sierra Nevada mountains that he loved so dearly.



From Eric Blehm's website:
"THE LAST SEASON TELLS THE INSPIRING, POIGNANT TRUE STORY OF THE LIFE AND MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE OF JAMES RANDALL MORGENSON WHO, over the course of 28 summers spent in California's Sierra Nevada Mountains, became arguably the most celebrated ranger in the National Park Service's most adventurous unit. For the solitary, introspective Morgenson, the job was a calling, and he became fiercely devoted to protecting the wilderness he loved from the backcountry visitors, and those visitors from the wilderness. But the intense isolation and a series of personal setbacks took their toll, and when Morgenson vanished without a trace, many suspected suicide or foul play".

I highly recommend this book if you are interested in biographies, nature and/or mysteries. This book has led to an aquaintanceship with Mr. Blehm and we are currently reading his newest book,
'The One Thing Worth Dying For".

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

TOKOPAH FALLS HIKE SEQUOIA/KING'S CANYON NP SUMMER 2006

This was our first trip to Sequoia/King's Canyon National Parks in August 2006.

Dave suggested we hike to TOKOPAH FALLS, a beautiful 1200 ft. high cascade along the Marble Fork Kaweah River. I was getting pretty worn out since we'd been hiking *8 miles everyday with no days off. I had started wrapping my left ankle at the start of our hikes so I'm certain I didn't sound too enthusiastic with my "Sure, okay" reply. I'm SO glad that we did because the hike to TOKOPAH FALLS was one of the best hikes we took on this trip! Families play in the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River near the trailhead.



The trail followed along the river with amazing views of the granite cliffs. We started around 2PM and quickly encountered other hikers making their return. Our preference is to begin hiking early in the morning although many times that's dependent on sunlight and shadows for Dave and his photographs. I'm easy-going and just go with the flow!

The "WATCHTOWER" 8,973 feet.


Most times when we're hiking, Dave, with his better endurance and longer legs is ahead of me on the trail. However this was one of those rare times I was out on the trail ahead of him while he was down next to the river taking pictures of wildflowers with the sunlight playing on the water. Up ahead in the distance (sounds like an EAGLES song-ha ha) I spotted some hikers who were returning from the Falls, looking to the left of the trail, up the hill, pointing and taking pictures. That always means wildlife! I came up to them and started watching a black bear which was feeding, turning up rotted bark on felled trees, looking for grubs. I kept looking down the trail for Dave since he was missing out on getting a picture of the bear. As soon as I saw his green Cabela's cap bobbing up the trail, I started waving my arms and mouthing the word, "BEAR". We lingered for a good 20 minutes, watching and photographing until the bear moved out of sight and then we pressed onward, toward the Falls.


We soon crossed over a small bridge where we saw a family with 4 young kids playing in the water. I walked down to them and told them about the bear up ahead. I wanted them to be "bear aware" since they had small children.

As we got closer to the Falls, Dave was once again ahead of me on the trail. I was taking my time because there were a lot of loose, granite rocks in different sizes that I had to scramble over. With a sore ankle I didn't want to step badly and possibly twist it. Not only that, I didn't want to fall since I have bleeding issues with my auto-immune disease! Dave turned the corner of the trail and was suddenly out of my sight. I continued on the trail, towards him when he reappeared, backing up on the trail with his hand held up, indicating, "STOP". I knew that he had spotted a bear! After a while he motioned for me to move forward. I caught up with him and he told me of his bear encounter.

He had turned the corner out of my sight, gone a short distance, within sight of the Falls when he heard a rustling in the brush right next to his feet. He stopped, looked down and saw a small, black face with 2 eyes looking at him. He actually said to himself,
"What is that? Is that a dog? It can't be, dogs aren't allowed on the trail. Maybe it's a wolverine?"
When it moved it quickly dawned on him that it was a black bear cub and there was a 2nd cub right next to it!! He began backing up, growing concerned because he didn't see the mama bear and he did NOT want to be between them! As he continued to back up, the 2 little bears crossed the trail! He snapped a quick picture and quickly left!


We reasoned that the mama bear must have been on the left side of the trail, the uphill side. When he pointed to the spot where he had seen the small bear cubs, I looked around us. The whole, entire area was covered with berries!! It's no wonder we had encountered bears! I told Dave,
"Do you realize how fortunate you are? If those bears had started squalling, Mama Bear would've come crashing down on top of you!"
He said he only had seconds to think, respond and try to formulate a plan. He told me that he,
"Didn't know if he should run ahead towards the Falls or back to me".
Thank goodness it didn't come to that!
(Due to arline regulations we weren't allowed to bring our Counter Assault Bear Spray with us on the plane. We had decided to purchase a can while in Yosemite and then donate it at one of its Visitor's Centers but we never saw a can the entire time we were there!)
Our destination, TOKOPAH FALLS

We resumed our hike, keeping on our toes and soon arrived at TOKOPAH FALLS where we took several pictures of the Falls as well as the granite cliffs all around us.

We thoroughly enjoyed our break as we talked endlessly of our bear sightings. We headed back down the trail and encountering a family of 3 and told them about the cubs and the mama bear that might still be around. We took a short break next to the river and soaked our feet in the cold water!

As we made our way down the trail further, we came across yet another bear! Being slightly ahead of me, Dave saw it first standing on the trail. We tried taking some pictures but the bear was constantly moving about making it difficult to photograph.

The family of 3 had caught up with us by now. At one point, Dave went down the trail to try and get photos. Suddenly the bear decided it wanted to go down towards him. I said in a loud voice,
"It's moving towards you!"
Those words reminded me of the scene in the original "Alien" movie where Dallas is in the ventilation shaft and through his earpiece, he's told that the alien is moving right towards him! At any rate, the bear crossed the trail and moved on up the hill. We were so excited! In all of our years spent in the wild places we have come to love, we've NEVER had an experience like that!

We returned to the lodge, cleaned up and ate a late dinner. We crashed that night, saddened that we were leaving the next day. I'm never ready to leave the wild places!

We stayed at the "John Muir Lodge" while in SEKI NP's.

A potrait of John Muir hangs over the stone fireplace.

Friday, January 22, 2010

ANOTHER BLOG!

I have decided to create this blog to chronicle journal entries and photos, of the many travels of our itchy feet as a Band of Gypsies!